Meunier, Champagne's 3rd grape variety

Published by Julia Bouchet - 29/06/2021 - Champagne World

Although 7 grape varieties are authorized in the Champagne appellation, 3 of them occupy more than 99% of the wine-growing region, in almost equal proportions:Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, which we've already touched on, and the small third, Meunier.Meunier is a bit of an ugly duckling among Champagne grape varieties, yet it occupies 34% of the vineyard, covering almost 11,000 hectares.In the appellation's Grands Crus and Premiers Crus, Meunier is not really welcome, apart from two in Aÿ and Sillery in the Grands Crus and very few in the Premiers Crus.Often used alongside its cousin Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, it nevertheless produces champagnes with a lovely roundness.

Le Meunier

Pinot meunier, Gris meunier in the Orléans region, Müller-traube in Germany, this grape variety first appeared in the 16th century under the nameAuvernat gris, and for a long time in Champagne, it was called "Morillon Taconné ".
It likes to grow on loamy, clay-limestone, marly or even clay soils, which are generally quite rich.Mostly grown in the Marne Valley and Aisne, it produces tiny, compact bunches of very small berries, with thick, bluish-black skin and colorless flesh. It's because the underside of its leaves is covered with a fine white cottony down, reminiscent of the flour handled by the Meunier, that it's given this name.

Meunier_-_Ampelographie

More and more winemakers are flying the flag for 100% Meunier cuvées.Founded in 2015 by Éric Taillet champagne winemaker and Pierre-Yves Bournerias oenologist since 1989, the "Meunier Institut" is a non-profit association whose aim is to highlight, inform and share its know-how around the Meunier grape variety.A total of 9 members, including 8 Champagne winemakers and Pierre-Yves Bournerias, are all passionate about Meunier and the many facets it has to offer.

The advantages of Meunier

It's a strong grape variety that resists winter frosts well.It is therefore planted where vineyards are most threatened by spring frosts, in the westernmost part of the Marne valley, but also in the Côte des Blancs and Aisne.
It ripens faster and more easily than its Chardonnay and Pinot Noir companions, and its yields are also more regular, averaging 10-15% higher than Pinot Noir.

Meunier aromas and flavors

This fruity champagne, with its unexpected aromas, is increasingly becoming a gourmet wine.Meunier wines are supple, with a charming fruitiness when young.On the nose, it's common to find aromas of greengage, yellow fruit, apple and raspberry, with plenty of roundness.Supple and also fruity, it adds a gourmet touch to champagne when blended with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.On the palate, it offers roundness, suppleness and crispness.
On the other hand, it lacks acidity, making it harder to age.Meunier-based champagnes can be enjoyed throughout a meal with light meats, cheese, and even chocolate or fruit desserts.

Great Meunier champagnes

  • At Krug, Meunier is a flagship grape variety, used extensively in blends such as its Brut Grande Cuvée.
  • At Appolonis, Meunier is the grape of choice ( APOLLONIS, LES CHAMPAGNES EN MUSIQUE). The"Authentic Meunier" cuvée is gourmet, ideal for an aperitif. It's the favorite of Arnaud Lallement, chef of the Reimois restaurant l'Assiette Champenoise.
  • Indispensable to the balance of Spécial Cuvée and Bollinger Rosé, Meunier adds a touch of roundness and suppleness. Maison Bollinger grows it on 24 hectares in Champvoisy, Passy-Grigny and Venteuil.
  • Cuvée Blanc de Meuniers by Maison Leclerc Briant is a champagne of character, full-bodied and mineral. This cuvée is made exclusively from organically grown Pinot Meunier from Premier Cru terroirs.
  • At Billecart-Salmon, Meunier is also a favorite. Billecart-Salmon's entire vineyard is planted with 85% Meunier grapes, and offers a range of cuvées expressing all the nuances of this grape variety, with its very own "Collection Meunier".
  • Laherte Frères and their Rosé de Meunier is a champagne made from several parcels located on the southern slopes of Epernay. These old Meunier vines, aged between 25 and 50 years, are treated using biodynamic practices. A fresh, complex and highly aromatic 100% Meunier champagne.
  • Maison Moussé Fils has been working with Meunier since 1923 on a green clay terroir. All the House's cuvées are made from it (apart from the Blanc de blancs), like the"Les vignes de mon village" cuvée, 100% Meunier from a blend of great years from the Cuisles terroir, or the"Effusion" rosé made from two perpetuals since 2003: one of white wines, and the other of red wines, which comes from the same plot of Meunier, and is aged for 24 months in barrels over 8 years old.
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