Champagne Abyss Leclerc Briant: Review and Tasting Notes

Publié par Julie Espirac-Noyelle - 15/06/2026 - Champagne Houses and Winegrowers

The Abyss cuvée from Leclerc Briant is, above all, a truly unique experience. It comes in a 75cl bottle that completes its aging process underwater at a depth of 60 meters, at the bottom of the sea, before being brought back to the surface and offered to connoisseurs. With hints of the sea, a salty character, mineral aromas, and truly surprising marine notes: Leclerc Briant Abyss champagne is one of the most distinctive cuvées in all of Champagne. A brut nature, zero-dosage champagne, crafted from a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Meunier, crafted by the certified organic, Premier Cru estate in Cumières.

Today we’ll explore together the history of this extraordinary Abyss champagne, understand how it’s made, discover what it offers in the glass, and why it amazes just about everyone who tastes it.

The Origin: When Shipwrecks Changed Everything

To understand Leclerc Briant Cuvée Abyss, we must go back to the depths of the Baltic Sea. In 2010, divers discovered a shipwreck at a depth of 50 meters. On board: a cargo of 168 bottles of champagne dating back 170 years, from various houses including Veuve Clicquot-Ponsardin, Heidsieck, and Juglar. These bottles had been resting at the bottom of the sea for nearly two centuries!

And the most astonishing part? The champagne was perfectly preserved. Total darkness, constant temperature, water pressure: the conditions of this natural underwater aging had preserved these wines in a way no one would have dared to imagine.

It’s important to note that this 18th-century champagne bore little resemblance to what we know today. It had an alcohol content of barely 9.5%, compared to 12.5% today, and contained no less than 150 grams of sugar per liter—three times the amount of sugar in a Coca-Cola. Champagne back then was much sweeter and had a much higher sugar content. Yet the bottles had survived the centuries intact.

This discovery brought back into the spotlight an idea as wild as it is obvious: what if the ocean floor were the best wine cellar in the world? It was precisely this question that took root in the mindsof Hervé Jestin, cellar master at Leclerc Briant, and Frédéric Zimmet, the House’s general manager, and gave rise to Abyss champagne.

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How was the Abyss cuvée created?

A blend designed for the sea

The Abyss cuvée isn’t just a random selection from the range that was plunged into the ocean to create a buzz. It’s a blend specifically designed for underwater aging, the result of a process that’s both scientific and poetic.

Hervé Jestin selected three specific plots from the Leclerc Briant vineyard—one for Chardonnay, one for Pinot Noir , and one for Meunier. These plots share a common characteristic: they rest on exposed limestone, with no layer of clay or sand above. Pure limestone.

And what exactly is limestone? It is the sea from 40 million years ago. Billions of tiny fragments of marine fossils accumulated, crushed, and sedimented to a depth of tens of meters. This soil holds the ocean’s memory. Hervé Jestin’s idea was therefore to create a cuvée whose grapes already have their roots anchored in this marine memory, then to expose it to today’s sea to see if this modern sea could reawaken the memory of the one from long ago. It’s beautiful, isn’t it?

The underwater cellar of Ouessant

In 2013, Maison Leclerc Briant was contacted by two young Bretons from the company Amphoris, who had the idea of creating a two-hectare underwater cellar around the island of Ouessant, in Finistère, at a depth of 60 meters. The house was in the process of bottling the 2012 vintage. Why not?

The bottles are placed in large racks that allow water and currents to flow through. It is not the bottle that moves: it is the water surrounding it that constantly swirls around it. At a depth of 60 meters, the pressure is 6 bars—exactly the same inside the bottle as outside. Nothing gets in, nothing gets out. The champagne is completely sealed.

The Baie du Stiff, at the eastern tip of the island of Ouessant, is one of the most turbulent maritime areas in the Atlantic. And it is precisely this intense marine energy that, according to Hervé Jestin, acts as a revitalizing force on the champagne. The wine soaks up a marine energy that traditional cellar aging conditions cannot replicate.

A year beneath the waves

After a standard two-year aging period on racks, approximately 3,500 bottles are submerged each year for an additional year underwater, completing a full marine cycle. In total, the Abyss cuvée spends three years maturing before being brought back to the surface, disgorged, and shipped.

The latest vintage is the Abyss Rosé 2019: a blend of 92% Chardonnay and 8% Pinot Noir. A cuvée that pushes the house’s aromatic exploration even further, adding the dimension of rosé champagne to the underwater experience.

The bottles: each bottle is a unique treasure

This is one of the details that makes the Abyss cuvée truly unique, in the literal sense of the word. When the bottles are brought up from the seabed, they bear the traces of their underwater adventure.

The wax that sealed the cork gradually fades away. The wire cage is corroded by seawater. The cork itself is blackened, marked, and weathered by twelve months spent 60 meters below the surface. Each bottle bears a different patina. No two are alike.

Initially, the house replaced the cork before shipping to present a “clean” bottle. But consumer feedback was unanimous: they wanted the original cork, the one that had descended into the abyss. Since then, the bottle has been sold exactly as it returns from the ocean floor—raw, marked by time and the sea. Like a pirate’s treasure brought up from the depths.

It is this authenticity that makes opening a bottle of Abyss feel like a small ceremony. Each bottle is a unique object, a collector’s item as much as an exceptional champagne.

Abyss by the glass: reviews and tasting notes

This is where it all comes together. Because beyond the story and the concept, the Abyss cuvée delivers on its promises in the glass—and that’s far from always being the case for “conceptual” cuvées.

What you find on the palate is astonishing: a soft, enveloping texture, fine, persistent bubbles, a very pronounced minerality, and above all, an iodine-like salinity that tasters and sommeliers consistently describe as surprising. It’s salty. It’s briny. It’s maritime. And it blows everyone away, starting with the house’s own teams.

In fact, it’s important to note that this salinity isn’t a marketing gimmick. It is real, perceptible, and explained by the combination of two factors: the pure limestone of the selected plots, carrying a marine memory dating back 40 million years, and the energy of the turbulent waters of the Baie du Stiff, which act on the champagne for a year.

In terms of professional tasting notes, the Abyss cuvée is highly regarded by specialized guides:

  • RVF Guide 2026’s “Coup de Coeur” for the 2019 rosé
  • 95/100 in Gault&Millau for the 2017 Abyss
  • 94 to 98/100 according to various guides

Scores that confirm that behind the originality of the concept lies a champagne of genuine quality and true aromatic complexity.

How to enjoy the Abyss cuvée?

A few tips to fully enjoy this unique tasting experience:

  • Temperature: between 10 and 12°C. Slightly warmer than for a classic champagne, to allow the marine and mineral aromas to fully express themselves.
  • The glass: opt for a tulip-shaped glass or a slightly flared white wine glass, which releases the aromas better than a narrow flute. The Abyss deserves room to express itself.
  • Food pairings: this is where the Chardonnay in L’Abyss reveals its full potential. Seafood, oysters, sea urchins, shellfish, raw fish: pairings with seafood are absolutely natural and harmonious, as if the champagne were rediscovering its marine origins on the plate. A fish-and-champagne pairing that is anything but ordinary.
  • Take your time: don’t rush this bottle. Let the champagne open up in the glass, watch the bubbles, smell it before you taste it. This is a cuvée that deserves time and attention.

Champagne Leclerc Briant

Maison Leclerc Briant is a family business founded in 1872 in Cumières. Bought in 2012 by a couple of passionate Americans, the Maison Leclerc Briant offers us singular and high quality vintages.

Vinified with respect for nature since the 1940s, this 10-hectare estate, essentially Premier Cru, is naturally certified organic and Biodynamic. Pioneer in organic wine making, the House is also a pioneer in parcel selections since the 1980s and offers us champagnes disgorged after a long period of ageing in the cellar and low dosage to let the cuvées express themselves to the maximum. Champagnes to discover without delay!

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